I Love Upscale Wine - A Non-Kosher Israeli Bordeaux Blend
Can Israel do a high-class
Bordeaux Blend?...
Clos de Gat Vineyards and Winepress
Most of our reviewed wines are not Kosher. But this is only the
second time that such status appears in the article title. Why? In part
to help dispel the misconception that all Israeli wines are Kosher. The
word Gat is Hebrew for a wine press such as shown in the pre-Roman
version below. Harel Vineyards is situated in the foothills of the
Judean Mountains, a great wine making site for some three millennia.
They exploit almost 50 acres (about 19 hectares). Their first wines were
the 2001 vintage and they produce about 50 thousand bottles a year. The
companion wine is a Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon that costs one fifth as
much. It too isn’t Kosher. By the way, I hope you aren’t upset that I
broke my $50 minimum for a wine featured in this column. I’m not.
OUR WINE REVIEW POLICY All wines that we taste and review are purchased at the full retail price.
Wine Reviewed
Clos de Gat Ayalon Valley 2007 14 % alcohol about $48.
Let’s start by quoting the marketing materials.. “Description : Clos
de Gat is a play on words as Clos is the French word for a walled
vineyard and Gat is the Hebrew name for an ancient wine press. Tasting
Note : As always, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Petit Verdot (60%, 30% and 10% respectively ), showing full-bodied and
reflecting its 18 months in new oak with gentle influences of spicy oak
and abundant but soft, gently caressing tannins. Impenetrably dark
garnet in color, showing black fruits on the nose, opening in the glass
to reveal currant and blackberry fruits and, from mid-palate on, hints
of blueberries. Long and generous with tannins rising with the fruits on
the finish. Approachable now but best 2013-2019. Score - 94. (Daniel
Rogov, at the haaretz web site, Feb. 3, 2011).”
Before I go to my review, I would like once again to pay tribute to
Israel’s top wine reviewer, Daniel Rogov now deceased. When the noted
film critic Robert Ebert died, I couldn’t help but think about Daniel
who was in the same league. But as for film, not everyone agrees about
wine. That’s part of the fun. And now for my review.
At the first sips this wine was subtle and yet powerful. It had medium
length and was multilayered. The initial meal centered on store-bought
barbecued, excessively chewy overcooked beef ribs. Chocolate came to the
fore in my glass. This liquid was sweeter than I’d like. A red cabbage
and mayonnaise salad darkened the juice. I got dark cherries but didn’t
like the sugar. In response to my slathering fiery Yemeni green jalapeno
sauce on the meat, the libation’s sweetness remained but some good oak
emerged. When wedded to very tasty homemade garlicky, oily roasted
eggplant, this blend started off with great acidity and nothing else.
Then I noted that its tannins were balanced. In response to a square of
Swiss dark bittersweet chocolate our Israeli friend remained strong and
long and came up with some good oak.
This review continues on my web site at
http://theworldwidewine.com/Wine_reviews/Monthly_expensive_wine_reviews/non_kosher_israeli_bordeaux_blend.php